We all want that lit-from-within look and smooth, flawless skin that screams “Look at me!” While there are tons of beauty products on the market, it can be overwhelming, even for someone who works in skincare. Where do you even begin?
Fret not, we’re here to turn your potential shopping headache into an easy-breezy journey with our non-exhaustive list of eight skincare ingredients you should look out for. Their names might sound scary, but I promise they are not. They are high in efficacy and if you know how to use them together, which we will also get into, they deliver A+ results.
Hyaluronic Acid
If you’ve read my previous articles, you may have noticed an ingredient I’ve tossed around quite a lot. That is hyaluronic acid. I kid you not, this is like the Holy Grail in skincare. Hyaluronic acid is found in just about every product you use (check your vanity to confirm) and adds to the skin’s basic function. It’s already found in the eyes, joints and skin, but this miracle worker keeps skin elastic and hydrated, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and giving skin a plump effect.
Taking a deeper dive into hyaluronic acid, there are low molecular weight and high molecular weight ones. The difference, you might ask? Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid penetrates into the deeper layers of the skin and is known for its anti-inflammatory effects. It helps with collagen production and keeps skin elastic. High molecular weight hyaluronic acid has excellent hydrating properties as it retains water molecules on the skin and creates a film-like barrier to prevent moisture loss and protect the skin from environmental stressors. Typically, a combination of the two is used in skincare to achieve optimal results. Hyaluronic acid is safe for any skin type and can be used with any other ingredient.
Niacinamide
For smooth skin texture and a nice clean, clear complexion, look no further than niacinamide. Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, brightens skin, reduces signs of hyperpigmentation, fades dark spots and gives skin a lift. It’s a powerful antioxidant that can prevent premature ageing due to environmental pollutants. It’s great for all skin types. However, it doesn’t blend well with certain ingredients. To avoid skincare catastrophes, a.k.a. breakouts, flare-ups and rashes, don’t use niacinamide with acidic ingredients, like retinol and Vitamin C.
Vitamin C
We’ve all heard of getting our dose of Vitamin C in to boost immunity. The same applies to skin. Vitamin C is an antioxidant that can combat toxins that compromise skin health, protect skin from the sun’s harmful UV rays and promote wound healing. Like niacinamide, Vitamin C brightens skin and reduces hyperpigmentation for an even, clear complexion. However, not all skin types can bear this ingredient. If you have sensitive skin, gradually introduce it into your skincare routine to see how your skin reacts.
AHA
On a weekly basis, it’s good to exfoliate the skin to rid it of dead skin cells and oil buildup that could lead to breakouts. To do that, this is where Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) comes in. AHA is a water-soluble chemical exfoliator that can unblock and cleanse out pores; thereby, brightening the skin and reducing skin discolouration. It also promotes blood flow to the skin, giving skin a healthy, rejuvenated glow. Glycolic acid is a popular type of AHA typically derived from sugarcane. It penetrates under the surface of the skin, speeding up skin renewal and removing dead skin cells. Not all skin types can handle chemical exfoliants so it’s best to test on a small surface before going all in. And if used, follow up with a gentle moisturiser as the skin is most sensitive post-exfoliation.
Retinol
In a world where we want to defy ageing and look forever young, plenty of anti-ageing skincare products are within reach to allow us to age gracefully. It’s never too early to take preventative measures to slow our skin ageing process and maybe even successfully fool others with our age, ha! Retinol is a trendy anti-ageing ingredient that exfoliates skin and increases skin cell and collagen production, which lessens the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. When incorporating retinol into your skincare routine, it’s recommended to use it only at night, as skin becomes extra sensitive to UV light once applied.
Unfortunately, retinol may be too potent for those with sensitive skin. Introducing, bakuchiol. Bakuchiol is a less intense and plant-based alternative to retinol. It has the same effects as retinol, the only difference is that it works great for sensitive skin types but at a slower pace than to retinol. But hey, good things take time, right?
Salicylic Acid
One of the most hit ingredients when it comes to tackling acne-prone skin is salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that exfoliates skin and removes dead skin cells so that it reduces the likelihood of acne and breakouts. While similar to AHAs as seen above, the difference between AHAs and BHAs is that AHA is water-soluble, meaning it works its magic on the surface of the skin, and BHA is oil-soluble, meaning that it works its magic both on the surface of the skin and inside pores. With that being said, salicylic acid penetrates through the skin and dissolves clogged pores that form whiteheads, blackheads and pesky pimples. Salicylic acid can potentially cause skin irritation and dry out skin, however. So, if you’re only just starting out with this ingredient, gradually incorporate it into your skincare.
Ceramides
Sometimes skin just needs some extra loving. And, ceramides can do just that. Ceramides have excellent moisturising properties, ensuring that skin stays hydrated through water loss prevention and a strengthened skin barrier. Essentially, ceramides are lipids, which are natural fats for the skin, that act as a protective barrier against harmful substances that can be absorbed into the skin and strip the skin of moisture and nutrients. Think of ceramides as healthy fats your body needs – avocado anyone? Many creams contain this ingredient, especially creams that target compromised and dry skin. Better yet, ceramides can be used with just about any other ingredient, even the harsher retinol and acid exfoliants.
Peptides
One of my skincare favourites is peptides. Peptides plump skin and give it a youthful glow. As I’m writing this on this date, I’ve already received compliments that I look eight years younger (not trying to boast here, rather, trying to justify that you need peptides in your vanity!). I don’t think they’re saying that to be my friend, but they actually mean it! For that, I have peptides to thank.
Peptides are proteins your skin needs to help with collagen production and improved elasticity. They increase moisture retention and improve the skin barrier and texture. Peptides are also great for sensitive skin types as they help reduce inflammation and promote faster skin recovery. Peptides can be used with almost all skincare ingredients, but steer clear of combining them with AHAs to prevent irritation.
